So, we landed in Fajardo, which is on the east coast of Puerto Rico and hopped in a cab to the Hotel Gran Melia. Notice I have not added a link for the Gran Melia. I just wouldn't want a link to be mistaken for an endorsement.
I should be nice. The Gran Melia had some things going for it. First, it's in Puerto Rico. Second, it has a pretty kick-ass pool complete with swim-up-bar and lounge "chairs" in the water.
Well, it has two things going for it.
Here's the thing - and believe me, the five of us have analyzed the crap out of this whole experience - in my mind, we were paying a lot of money, but apparently, as far as all-inclusive resorts go, we were actually going a bit cheap as it turns out. The Gran Melia is a family friendly resort - which means screaming children, loud music, annoying activity coordinators trying to get you to happily participate in things like dance lessons, and poolside quiz games, and yoga at the wedding chapel every single second you are there. It's not that relaxing, unfortunately. Everything about it is just mediocre. The food. The service. Even the phone system was mediocre. We escaped to San Juan on Sunday night for one last hurrah before we left and we were all as giddy as little schoolgirls. We had a fabulous meal at Tantra (see- now that place is worth a hyperlink), and a few drinks, and then negotiated a cab ride home.
And then about halfway into the 45 minute trip home, with five of us crammed in the car, the cab lost it's transmission in the middle of the highway, and we came to a screeching halt off to the side of the road (thankfully).
You have to laugh in these situations. There we were on the side of the road around midnight on our last night in Puerto Rico, waiting for the poor cab driver - who is looking at a huge repair bill - to call a friend of his from a town 15 minutes a way to come and pick us up. And pick us up she did, in her tiny little Corolla, with a lifesize baby doll in the trunk, which we all spotted when she opened the trunk to throw some stuff in, and caused a moment of startled confusion. Just a moment though, until we realized quickly that she did not have a real baby in the trunk of the car. She got us home in one piece, but it was a challenging trip, considering how we had to again cram into a car too small for 5 passengers, and considering how the road in and out of the resort had so many speedbumps that it warranted a four-wheel drive vehicle just to adequately travel the terrain.
I'm not saying we didn't have fun. I think the five of us will always share some sort of bond that will have us joking about the pilates chapel, the Activity Czar, and the dueling DJs for years to come. But at the same time, I think that given a choice, I would much rather vacation at the no frills beach with the barbeque put and some snorkeling gear to keep me entertained over the all inclusive resort any day.
Having said all of that, one of the coolest experiences of the entire trip was going to Bio Bay. But just to be clear, this was NOT associated with the resort. This was a kayaking trip we took one of the nights we were there. You start on the open water right on the ocean and in kayak pairs, following a guide, we paddle in a group through a small channel flanked by mangroves. The channel opens into a lagoon that is one of 5 places in the world inhabited by a plankton or algae (maybe they are the same thing) that photosynthesizes and gives off light when disturbed. The paddling of kayaks disturbs these little guys en masse, and the effect is so wild it's hard to describe in words. When you put your hands in the water, they basically glow. If a fish swims by, you can see a trail of light behind it, and you can see the trail of the kayaks and oars as well. A once in a lifetime experience, no doubt. I highly recommend it.
So that was our little wintertime jaunt. I highly recommend Puerto Rico as a travel destination. I'm hesitant to recommend Culebra because it still seems to be pretty sleepy and less "discovered," but considering only my friends and family are probably reading this blog, I guess it's okay to mention it. Especially because I'll be bugging people to go back when we make a return trip.
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