Tuesday, August 21, 2007
Fun new feature
Open to ideas!!!
Monday, July 16, 2007
Back in the country but still recovering
I left Bolivia on Friday night. The plan was: La Paz through Santa Cruz (another city in Bolivia where all American Airlines flights pass through), to Miami, then spend Saturday day and night in Miami hanging out with my friends Katrina and TJ and my beautiful goddaughter, Sophia. Then continue on home on Sunday morning from Miami.
This, however, did not quite work the way it was supposed to.
(I am not, generally, a superstitious person, however I find it appropriate to point out that I commenced travel on Friday the 13th).
Flight one: La Paz to Santa Cruz. Friday night.
The flight was delayed for two hours, so it's good that I wasn't counting on a connecting flight in Miami right away. We arrived in Santa Cruz a little after midnight, and the plan was, to drop off and pick up more passengers and continue on to Miami.
On the tarmac in Santa Cruz, we were informed that there was a mechanical problem with the plane's landing gear and they had to call in a mechanic. After periodic updates for a little while, we were asked to de-plane and await further news. Another mechanic was woken up and called in, while we lined the hallway of the Santa Cruz terminal for about two hours. At about 3:30am, we were told that the flight had been cancelled and that we should get our luggage and proceed to the check in area for hotel vouchers. By the time all of our luggage came through (including my ridiculously large painting), and we got the vouchers, it was about 6am.
We got to the hotel at 6:30, and despite thin walls (enough to hear the next door neighbor taking a shower and the gathering of dudes hanging out with some weird car alarm/horn thing that sounded like the soundtrack to something like 2001: A Space Odyssey), we were able to don earplugs and sleep for 4 hours, until we had to go back to the airport.
Flight two: Santa Cruz to Miami
Luckily this one left on time, but because of all of this mess, I obviously did not make it to Miami to spend the day with Kat and TJ and to fill my Saturday night babysitting duties. This was the most disappointing part of the trip. We got to Miami around 11, and got checked into the Airport Marriott, got some food (and much needed alcohol!) and went to bed around 1am. I could complain about how poorly stocked the plane was with beverages from Santa Cruz to Miami, but that just seems so insignificant compared to anything else. At least there were decent movies.
Flight three: Miami to DC
We woke up at 5:30 to catch an 8:30 (or so) flight from Miami. This time, the plane left on time, but did not have enough blankets for everyone who wanted one. Luckily, my co-worker, with whom I was sharing this unfortunate adventure, had snagged one for me from someone else's seat before everyone had boarded.
Baggage Claim adventure DCA.
I should point out that this entire time, we had been hauling our luggage (which included 4 checked pieces, of which one was my oversized painting and one was my overweight rolling suitcase, for which I paid a total of $144 dollars additional just to get on the plane) to and from every airport and hotel we set foot in. Everything had successfully made it out of Bolivia. But somewhere between Miami and DC, my painting was lost. I travel enough that this was not the first time luggage had been lost/delayed/misplaced/whatever, but it was the most expensive piece that had ever been lost.
Luckily by Sunday night, it had apparently been located and was scheduled for delivery. Though it's Monday at 3pm and I'm still waiting. Though I talked to the delivery guy who assured me it woudl come maybe around 7pm tonight.
I wasn't planning on taking the whole day off today, but after trying to sleep in unsuccessfully and looking around at the disaster area that is my apartment, and realizing I had no clean clothes to wear to work and no food to eat, I decided it was worth taking a day to recover. I'm sure at some point in the future I will be able to look back at this experience and laugh, but I'm not there yet.
But at least I can breathe and not get winded walking up flights of stairs. And I just went on a produce buying binge at Whole Foods. And I'm in my comfy and familiar apartment, even if it does have crap lying all over, half unpacked. And I'm not at work. So life's not all bad. But I'll be much happier when my painting arrives.
Monday, July 09, 2007
Winter is here!
Sunday, July 08, 2007
Taking full advantage of my last weekend...
Friday night: Destination: Peña Marka Tambo
Peñas are best described (by Lonely Planet, of course) as traditional Folk Music venues, but they can definitely come to resemble variety shows of sorts. We met a former staff member and his wife and son at the Peña Marka Tambo which is on Calle Jaen, a really pretty and well-preserved colonial street near the Plaza Murillo. I didn’t stay until the end, but got a good cross-section of the entertainment. First there was a woman with a guitar who sang some traditional folk songs. She had an amazing voice and was a brilliant guitarist. Interspersed were some numbers by a folk dance troupe, which was also pretty interesting. Then there was a guy who was a (very funny) comedian, who seemed to be pretty well known by the audience. I left with a colleague before the headliner – Pepe Murillo – which was too bad, but it was already late and we were exhausted. Maybe next time.
Saturday: Destination: Tiahuanaco
Tiahuanaco is still considered to be a very important Aymara religious ceremonial center. It’s about 1 ½ hours drive from La Paz. We basically hired a taxi to drive us there, wait, and then drive us home. Not a bad deal. The ruins themselves aren’t as impressive as I had thought, but after the fact, someone told me that it is much better seen with a guide, because the history you get with a guide makes it much more interesting. I can see how that would be the case. I think the most impressive thing about the ruins was the size of some of the rocks that were used to carve figures and gateways. One of these pieces, the Gateway of the Sun, is said to weigh at least 44 tons. That’s a lot of rock to be hauling around. As in the case of most pre-Columbian ruins I have seen, the engineering that went into building these structures seems pretty amazing and advanced. You can see pictures on my flickr page, and hopefully in the next day or two I can upload them to the kodakgallery page for those of you who prefer that.
Saturday night: Destination: Mongo's Bar.
I joined our administrative assistant and her best friend to go to Mongo's, which is known as a big ex-pat hang-out, which is probably why I didn't like it too much. The bar itself is cool. The music is eclectic (when have you ever been in a bar that played J-Jo, Pink Floyd, and that song by the bloodhound gang about "you and me baby, we ain't nothin' but mammals so let'd do it like they do on the discovery channel..." not to mention endless trance-euro-techno stuff all in the same night?), but the crowd just seemed like an odd mix of people, and not as friendly a feel as other places I've been to. But it was definitely a popular place to go.
Sunday: Elizabeth (colleague) and I went to have an american style breakfast at Alexander's coffee shop and now I'm back at the apartment getting ready to do some work. This afternoon we will take a break and go with another colleague to hang out in the Zona Sur. Not that I need another shopping opportunity, but there's a big market there on the weekends apparently. Looks like the Fighting Cholitas won't happen this trip. Too bad, but I think I have fit in a good amount of activities to tide me over for a while.
Friday, July 06, 2007
Local Art, of the snooty variety
I bought art.
This art was meant to be mine. I saw this painting on the wall in the Maya MacLean Casa in San Miguel seven months ago when I was here. I contemplated buying it. I even had a dream about it. I went back to see it again, but the price tag was speaking too loudly to me at that point.
To an art connoisseur – which I am not – this painting might be unimpressive. I believe it’s an oil painting, thickly coated with brilliant reds, yellows and oranges. It’s maybe about 5x5ft. big. It’s by a Bolivian artist who was trained in the US named Keiko Gonzales.
But when I found out I was coming back to Bolivia, I thought about this shop and I thought, if that painting is still there, I should buy it.
And there it was...
I didn’t have to buy it. I certainly would have survived without it. It was an investment that will cut back my food budget for the next few months (which is okay. I need to lose some weight anyway!).
But I have a big blank white wall in my apartment that has been screaming for a piece of art to be hung for many, many months, and it will make my little home feel a little more complete. And it will remind me of a place I have visited. And no one will have the same piece of art in their house, anywhere. All those reasons are good enough for me.
Now the big question is, how am I going to get it home...
Wednesday, July 04, 2007
Happy Fourth of July
Enjoy the festivities today!
If you are an ex-pat like me (at least currently), I hope you are having a lovely day at the office!
Monday, July 02, 2007
12 hours to see a bunch of salt
“Stretching southward from La Paz to the Chilean and Argentine frontiers is a harsh, sparsely populated wilderness of scrubby windswept basins, lonely peaks, and almost lifeless salt deserts. …The moment the sun sets – or even passes behind a cloud – you’ll realize this air has teeth… Those who live on the Altiplano are among the world’s hardiest souls, existing on the edge of human endurance…. They deserve a great deal of respect for their accomplishments.”
I personally feel like I, too, deserve a great deal of respect for going there and surviving for just a weekend. To get to Uyuni, one travels 3 ½ hours in bus from La Paz to Oruro. Then it’s a further 7 hours in a dusty and cold train to Uyuni. The miserableness of the train travel was compounded by the fact that the DVD player (or maybe DVDs?) were not fully functional, so during the trip, I watched from ½ to ¾ of three different movies, dubbed in Spanish, none of which I would have ever bothered to watch in the US. I sat next to a slightly melancholy Italian woman who seemed to think her blend of some Spanish and mostly Italian was enough to have a variety of small conversations with me during the trip. She meant well. I smiled and nodded a lot.
I was met at the train station by someone from one of the various travel agencies that arranged this trip (as a team, I guess), and taken to the hotel. He showed me to my room and turned on the “heater.” The heater didn’t do much, and the hotel was made from adobe (mud walls, basically), and it was very, very cold. Let me describe how cold it was. I had three blankets on my bed, which I doubled because it was a queen or full sized bed. I also wore to bed my pants, my running lycra pants under them, two pairs of socks, alpaca wool leg warmers, a long sleeved tee shirt, two sweaters, my hat, and earmuffs. Oh, and my scarf and gloves. I managed to sleep okay.
I mucked around in town for about an hour or so before the day trip to the Salar (salt flats) left and bought a few souvenirs. I ended up on a tour with a very nice group of people: a Swiss packpacker traveling alone, a very cute Canadian couple, and a mom and daughter team of Brazilians, the daughter being a theater actress living in Sucre and mom being a visitor. All very nice.
Our first stop was the Train Graveyard. Interesting, but not much of a story behind it. Then we drove to the small town that’s right at the entrance to the Salar. I did my fair share of supporting the local economy, based almost entirely on salt and alpaca products. Then we drove out to the flats. It was very cool. I mean, yes, in a temperature sense, but also in a sense of being really neat, awe-inspiring, other-worldly. For as far as the eye could see, it was white. We stopped in a few places on the flats and then drove to Isla Incahuasi or Isla de los Pescadores – Island of the Fisherman. It’s literally an island (one of several dozen) that was left behind when the salt water sea evaporated into the flats, and managed to sustain life in the form of mostly cacti and other scrubby, desert plants. The rock formations on the island were actually coral at one point when the area was covered in water. We hiked around on the island for a while and then started driving back, stopping a few more places along the way.
At that point, I was feeling like the trip had been worthwhile.
We got back to Uyuni around 6, and I made plans to meet the Canadian couple for dinner at 7. We found our way to Minuteman Pizza, inexplicably good pizza, inexplicably owned by a dude from Amhert, Massachusetts. Then we, along with another Canadian couple, went to the Arco Iris restaurant/pub for a drink or two before we all went our separate ways and I headed to the train station around 11pm to catch my midnight train back to Oruro.
The train was even colder than the hotel. The conductor handed out blankets. I was wearing the same amount of layers that I had worn the night before, except this time I was wearing an additional alpaca wool hat that I had purchased, along with three pairs of legwarmers (one pair on my legs, one pair on my feet and one pair on my arms). I did not sleep at all. We got to Oruro and luckily I didn’t have long to wait til the bus came. But with the bus came another bad American movie dubbed into Spanish that only worked until about 2/3 of the way through when a cable seemed to become disconnected, and no one bothered to tell the driver to do something about it.
I got home around noon on Sunday, took the hottest shower I could possibly stand, and slept for 4 hours. I felt like a new woman after that.
So the to and fro were horrible and uncomfortable, but hopefully the pictures speak for themselves about how incredible this place was once I actually got there. Definitely a unique experience that I will probably not have again. But, if the chance does come up, I’ll be bringing a sleeping bag. No doubt about it.
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
Pictures, Pictures
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amyspix/sets/72157600498533112/
This link will take you directly to the Bolivia 2007 set. I haven't gotten a chance to put captions on everything, but will try to do so during the week.
I think the pictures next week will be more interesting. This first week, I didn't do a whole lot. At least not a whole lot that was worth taking pictures of!
Sunday, June 24, 2007
pictures tomorrow
Caught in the San Juan Crossfire
Though it´s kind of cool looking out my window at the outlying areas of La Paz and up into El Atlto and just seeing random fireworks go off all over the place.
Other than that, I went to a really fun dinner party on Friday night, and then I went to the National Art Museum yesterday. The art museum took about 45 minutes to get through. But they had some cool stuff and they allowed picture taking, so some of the pictures I´m posting are of some of my favs in the gallery. So it has been a pretty productive weekend for me, despite the fact that I didn´t get out of bed until about 1pm both yesterday and today.
Anyway, I´m in an internet cafe today trying to upload pictures. I think the internet connection here is even slower than the one in my office, which is kind of a bummer. Plus the keyboard sucks and it´s laid out spanish-style, so lots of the characters are in places I´m not used to.
So check out my pictures, link to the right - password is my last name. Hope everyone had a great weekend.
Oh, and lastly, I was feeling super-snarky about the sale of hotdogs at the Ketal the other day when I posted, but yesterday I stopped there to pick up some stuff, and everywhere I looked, folks were buyin´up those dogs. That´s the last time (well, maybe) that I´ll be snarky about something like that.
Thursday, June 21, 2007
How to survive the longest night of the year, Bolivian Style
They barbeque.
Um, duh?
At least that’s what the local supermarket thinks. Consider the flyer that got placed in my grocery bag this week:
KETAL TIENE LOS MEJORES PRODUCTOS
PARA LA NOCHE MAS FRIO DEL AÑO.
So, Ketal, the supermarket, claims to have the best products for the coldest night of the year.
What are these great products that I must have to get me through the frozen night, you might ask? Well, let me tell you what items Ketal has on sale. For very special sale prices, you can buy the following items:
Combo 1 Extra: with 24 hot dog buns, 24 extra large hot dogs, ketchup, mayonnaise, napkins, and two 2L bottles of Coca Cola. (Combos 2-5 seem to contain similar items, except for 4, which throws in sauerkraut for the dogs)
Chorizo (spicy or mild) by the kilo.
Red wine
Singani, which is a grape based liquor that you generally mix with Sprite, so of course, the Pack Casa Real includes a bottle of Singani, a 2L bottle of Sprite, and a glass.
Oh, and you can also buy Marshmallows. And of course, charcoal.
Man, if only Ketal would consider having this sale in another week and a half and I would be set to celebrate the Fourth of July here.
Long distance dating has never been so entertaining...
So, I admit, one of the more difficult things about leaving DC behind actually had to do with a guy. His name is Dave. He's awesome. He's everything great. He's absolutely fabulous. (And I know I'm totally embarassing him here, but he'll get over it. ;-) )I'll make it up to him somehow. Anyway, we've been spending a lot of time together over the past few months, so I knew that this trip was going to be difficult for both of us.Luckily, Dave is a total tech-geek. I mean, the guy owns a Roomba, fer cryin' out loud. He has a ROBOT that vacuums his home!!! So before I left, I was sure to outfit myself with the latest in high tech communications devices. Now, if you have known me forever, you are probably realizing what this guy has done to me because I have never EVER been at the curve, much less ahead of the curve when it comes to adopting new technology into my life. I really did resist getting a cell phone for as long as possible. And I only just bought my first computer a little over a year ago.
So here I found myself, packing for Bolivia, with my laptop, my headset, and my webcam. Dave and I did some troubleshooting back in DC to make sure we could get everthing working, and maybe a day or two into my trip, we had already had a fairly good quality video-phone call (free of charge. Thanks, Skype!). This was actually something of a miracle because the internet is only moderately predictible most of the time.
Yesterday Dave and I had planned to talk towards the end of the day, but I was worried because all afternoon my internet connection in the office kept on going down, which did not bode well for a smooth phone call. I had thought once or twice about emailing him to say, hey, maybe we should try this another day when it's looking like a better connection, but then I realized that that day of a better connection may never come, so I decided that we should just go for it.
The first call was okay, but not great. We had audio and we had video. The video was a little shakey, but more of a problem was the incredible lag time we had.
Dave: Okay, I'm going to count to three and then you say four and we'll see how long the lag is, ready? One, two, three....
(crickets chirping...)
Amy: Four
Oh dear...Dave pointed out that at one point the lag time was approximately 30 seconds. But it made things entertaining, even if we couldn't have any sort of a real conversation. We just spent a lot of time laughing at each other, and starting to talk, and then stopping because, due to the lag, we kept interrupting each other. And then we'd just laugh again. It wasn't productive , but it was damn funny.
All of a sudden those terrible words come across my instant messenger screen...
Dave Copeland says: you froze
Dave Copeland says: no audio
Dave Copeland says: d'oh
Dave Copeland says: connection lost immediately
Dave Copeland says: no audio :*
We still have video so we can see what's going on. Dave is typing all of this for my benefit, but that sad part is, while he can't hear me, I can hear him perfectly fine. I try to tell him that. He laughs at how I just look like I'm yelling at the camera.
Amy Maura Pearson says: I'm saying I CAN HEAR YOU!!!
Dave Copeland says: hahahahah
Amy Maura Pearson says: Now I feel like a deaf person!
Dave Copeland says: I think the video is actually more fun than the audio :)
Dave Copeland says: the lag in response
Dave Copeland says: always funny for some reason
Amy Maura Pearson says: but I'm not talented enough to type and watch the video at the same time.
Remember that all of this is going on while we are both on video, but only Dave can be heard. I feel like I must look like an old soundless movie, like I should be holding up cards that say what I'm saying in between scenes.
Amy Maura Pearson says: okay - well, shoudl we quit this nonsense and try again tomorrow
Dave Copeland says: yeah, def
Amy Maura Pearson says: This is my worst nightmare
Amy Maura Pearson says: not being heard.
Amy Maura Pearson says: :
Dave Copeland says: hahahah
Dave Copeland says: I hate to click that big red hang-up button
Amy Maura Pearson says: you hang up first
Amy Maura Pearson says: hahah
Dave Copeland says: we're like in high school
Dave Copeland says: "ok on three we both hang up same time"
Dave Copeland says: hahahah
Amy Maura Pearson says: Okay - hanging up. Bye. :*
Dave Copeland says: bye!
This looks like it was a very short conversation, but it really wasn't. We spent most of the time laughing at each other and laughing at this really unfortunate state of affairs in which we have outfitted ourselves with the highest of high tech (okay, well, maybe not the highest) equipment in the hopes that it would seem like we were still right there in the same city. But, while I would much rather be able to video chat with my honey any time I want to and see his picture and hear his voice clearly, it's still pretty freaking funny to see the slow motion video, with the lagging audio (when you have audio) trying to catch up with the movement of our mouths, or just typing while we make faces at each other on the video screen. It's not ideal in terms of communication, but it will make the month go by faster. Besides, yesterday I got a local SIM card for my cell phone so I can use it here. Who knows what other high tech trouble I can get myself into while I'm here? >:-)
Monday, June 18, 2007
Warning: Vegetables May Be Hazardous to Your Health
- “Wash” them, or more accurately, remove the visible dirt from them by rinsing them in water.
- Boil, fry or steam the life out of them
- Continue to boil, fry or steam the life out of them for at least ten more minutes.
There were similar rules to follow for fruits and veggies. I believe the common mantra was to never eat anything that wasn’t baked, boiled, or peeled. It definitely cuts back on your selection.
So I just got done steaming the shit out of some spinach, and now it’s cooking for about 45 minutes at 350, along with the other companion ingredients in a lasagna. That probably sounds pretty impressive. You should have seen what I was going to cook for dinner. It involved ingredients in the following picture.
But what I ended up eating (because the lasagna would be done too late to eat tonight for me) involved ingredients in the following picture.
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Off the beaten path tourism, maybe?

So, my good friend Sarah sent me a link to this short film she saw this week. If anyone is in the DC area on Saturday, it's playing at the AFI theater in Silver Spring on Saturday morning at 10:30am. It looks fantastic. The film is described in the following way:
Bolivian indigenous peasants, la cholitas wear traditional layered skirts when slamming each other in the ring. The luchas' strength inside the ring and out is remarkable.
I mean, come on, how could you NOT want to see that???
I've suggested to my colleague, Elizabeth (who will be joining me in Bolivia for my last two weeks there) that we should go check it out. The event takes place in El Alto (a suburb of La Paz) every Sunday night. She seemed interested, but then reminded me that El Alto is ranked amongst the most dangerous cities in the world. So this may not happen. But we'll see.
Today is my last day in the office and I fly on Sunday, so more from the southern hemisphere to come soon!
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
Heading south again
So along with work, which I'm *technically* being sent to do, I have my eye on a few potential weekend trips.
The first one is to the Salar de Uyuni which is in the south of Bolivia. It's the world's largest salt flats, which sounds a little weird, but check out some of the pictures and you might understand why I'm intrigued: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salar_De_Uyuni . It just looks very cool and other worldly. Certainly a unique experience.
The second one is to head to Peru and visit Machu Picchu: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machu_Picchu . I was told during my last trip that it's fairly easy to get to by bus, actually. We'll see. But who knows when I will be that close again so I might as well give it a shot.
And I will be working up a storm when I'm not being touristy too. :-) We've had some major staff changes in our project so we are headed into a bit of a transitionary time. It could be good, it could be bad. You'll have to stay tuned to find out.
I leave on June 17 and will return home on July 15.
And just as a reminder, to see the photo albums in the link on the right, the password is my last name. :-)
